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Chimene, my mother-in-law (always an interested and interesting challenge), the children and I had a wonderful stay with you and Mili at the Coral Lodge. The physical setting of the lodge is impressive and as I biologist I appreciated your protection of the mangroves when creating the walk to the cabanas. Guests should be impressed by the size of the mangroves along the walk as they serve as a reminder that Panama’s geography places its coastlines outside the hurricane and earthquake zone. Elsewhere in the Caribbean mangroves rarely get as tall as the ones along the coast at Coral Lodge because hurricane winds frequently knock them back.

We had a blast in the kayaks and our day trips permitted Chimene and Sara to stay in shape for the Ocean-to-Ocean cayuco race which Chimene and her team went on to win smashing the previous women’s record in the open class, and Sara and her team placed second in the trophy division. That fact should keep Wilson’s ever-present smile firmly affixed to his face as he and Georgia beat Chimene and me on our race back from Santa Isabel. Wilson was a wonderful guide and the kayak trip through the mangrove creek and across the reef was spectacular, and the children had a blast tracking big rays along the bottom as we glided overhead.

Although the seas were rough one of the highlights of the visit for me was our trip to Escribanos Bank. Although we were snorkeling in 15-30 feet of water, the visibility was superb and we could easily see the bottom from the surface and all the fish in between. The Elkhorn coral is some of the most impressive that I have seen in the Caribbean and with all the coral bleaching and coral disease being reported elsewhere it was wonderful to see a stand in such good shape. I will be back with my scuba gear once you are set up with a compressor as I would really like to explore the diving along the bank.

The cabanas were exquisite. Airy, spacious, beds firm and comfortable, hot water (always nice following a long snorkel), with a porch overhanging the reef, what more could one ask for? The food was wonderful -- really it is the first time I have stayed anywhere in Panama where I felt that food on site added significant enjoyment to the visit. Your chef is imaginative and skilled, and the walk from the restaurant bohio back to the cabana is a necessary follow-on to one of her meals. The isolation of the Coral Lodge and the long walks on adjacent beaches, and the trek into the forest with you, was something that added greatly to our visit. If my children are not out exploring and finding treasures (subsequently to become junk at home) on the beach or in the water they are insufferable, and Chimene and I suffered them happily so life at Coral Lodge was very good.

The trip back was memorable and is a source of amused conversation with Andrew and Beth, Elena and Peter, and Elaine (my mother-in-law). Each one indicating that they maintained their cool only to insure that the others did not lose theirs. I was oblivious as I enjoy the sea, or perhaps it was just that your seamanship was excellent. We had a memorable and thoroughly enjoyable visit to the Coral Lodge. The price is high for a penurious biologist and thus our visits will not be as frequent as we would wish, but any time we can split the cost with my generous mother-in-law we will be back.
Eldredge Bermingham
Senior Staff Scientist and Deputy Director
Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute

Coral Lodge